What follows here took place during the second week of September. It was planned a long time ahead. A quarter century of friendship between myself and Filip Marek would be celebrated with an adventure.We both love mountains. The Canadian Rockies has some of the finest, and most of them have not been gelded by roads, habitations and ski resorts. A lot of them are as wild as they were when their first human explorers came upon them pursuing mammoths down the “ice-free corridor” or perhaps filtered in from the Pacific coast. But the choice of destination had to be a compromise between the cost and time of access and the degree of wilderness. I had only one week free, and Filip could spare not much more.
I chose Mt. Assiniboine, a handsome 3,618m peak in the south-central Rockies, in BC but close to the Alberta boundary. The area around it is well protected. No roads are allowed in the 4,000ha region around it. Access is limited to hiking in or out on foot, or helicopter. There are a limited number of camping places, and environmental protection is strict. All supplies must be carried in, and nothing, not even a gum rapper, should be left behind. This area is in turn surrounded on all sides by larger national and provincial parks with less stringent protection, but still kept wild. The Kanasaskis Range, protecting its eastern flank, puts it into a different world from the ski resorts and tourist trail of Banff and Jasper. From the Alberta side, it’s rather like The Wall in Game of Thrones.
Our plan was to meet at a hostel in Calgary, then take a bus the next day to Canmore, Alberta, a ski and riding resort in the Bow Valley. We overnighted there, which gave us an evening to explore the town, climbing up to some hoodoos that overlooked the town, and amusing ourselves looking at the absurd abundance of wild rabbits hopping around the town. Almost as numerous were Ford 550 cab trucks. The local library was equipped with a climbing wall — not something you expect in a library in Toronto. Its extensive local history collection revealed that Canmore was originally a coal mining town, first settled by dour-looking immigrant Finns of such prodigeous fertility that they would have inspired the envy of the rabbits. The present population is the usual multi-racial, multi-lingual Canadian mixture, with a noticeable presence of local Blackfoot, Sarcee, and Cree.
In Canmore, we faced the first strategic uncertainty in our plans. To reach Mt. Assiniboine, we would hike 28km from the trailhead, going over Assiniboine Pass to a small log cabin near Lake Magog, where we would stay for three nights. This entry hike was supposed to take between seven and ten hours. Overnighting on the trail was not encouraged, since it’s grizzly country. So we would have to start reasonably early. But to get to the trailhead at Mt. Shark, we needed to go through the narrow pass between Mt. Rundle and Ha Ling Peak, then follow a 40km gravel road. There is no public transportation along this road, so we had no choice but to get up early and hope that we could hitch-hike to the trailhead and get there with a sufficient window of daylight. Fortunately, we got a ride within half an hour, with a charming woman who knew the mountains and trails.
The second uncertainty was our physical condition. Both of us had leg injuries. I had an as-yet unhealed stress fracture in my left leg, that was still occasionally painful, and Filip has some kind of ongoing plantar problem. Filip is a big, muscular guy, much more athletic than I am. I’m a pudgy little guy, nobody’s visual image of an outdoorsman. Though I have a long history of outdoor activities, in recent years I’ve been pretty urban. My last hike on this scale — a long uphill grind in the mountains of Transylvania in 2007 — left me paralyzed with exhaustion, unable to walk the last klik to my goal. A short hike up Mont du Lac des Cygnes in Quebec, last spring, was easy enough, but didn’t indicate any great degree of spryness. Frankly, I had no idea if I would be able to do this. It’s customary for people to helicopter in to the mountain, then hike out over the pass, making most of the trip downhill. I had purposely arranged things in reverse, so that the test of our mettle would be at the start. The 28km hike would be uphill most of the way, starting with a 65m descent to the Upper Spray River, then a 650m rise to Assiniboine Pass.
Another uncertainty was the weather, always a gamble in the Rockies. We hiked under a grey, overcast sky. We were both resigned to the possibility that rainstorms or even snowfall might significantly reduce both visibility and comfort. In fact, the woman who gave us the ride had informed us that Lake Magog’s alpine valley was snowbound that morning, but was expected to melt off by the time we got there. While there was a general prediction of clearing weather in the next few days, mountains tend to chop up such predictions into micro-weather, with large variations between different enclaves.
As it turned out, the cool, grey weather was a blessing. The upward trek was not nearly as difficulty as I had feared, and we made rapid progress without working up a sweat. After only a few hours, we came upon a bull-moose. This was somewhat unusual, as moose are nocturnal. I have had a lot experience with this charmingly stupid animal. This one was a young male, with a rack of antlers raw red from either fighting or scratching. I wasn’t sure if it was rutting season here, but I knew it was so back in Ontario. Moose can be dangerous, if you get too close to them, especially rutting males, and we had turned a corner that brought us quite close to him. But he looked at us with bored disdain and walked away. This was to be our only encounter with a large animal. We had purchased a can of bear spray in Calgary, since it is more or less required, because there are numerous grizzlies in the area. However, grizzly-human encounters are rare. Usually, they hear the noise of humans from far off, or smell them in the air and avoid them. We met two parties of people making the more popular downward trip. At approximately the half-way point, the valley we followed climbed out of the forest and opened up into alpine meadow, hemmed in by spectacular cliffs. Only the last portion, where the trail had become muddy and narrow, and the climb over Assiniboine pass, rather steep, broken up, and still snowy, was any sort of challenge.
We made it to the cabin in good time. The snow had mostly melted, but Mt. Assiniboine was still invisible, hidden behind a mist of clouds. We were tired, but not exhausted. There was already a fire in the stove, and we met our cabin mates. We could not have been luckier. They were a charming family of Métis background: a husband and wife, a teenage daughter by an earlier marriage, and a dignified elderly aunt. The husband had once been a ranger at Assiniboine, and knew the place by heart. Two sons were with them, but were tenting in the bush, rather than staying in the cabin. They all had the quiet, soft-spoken calm and confidence that would make them an idealized sample of exemplo familia canadensis. I had expected to share the cabin with the inevitable Australians on walkabout, or some noisy macho types. This family was a blessing to us, making the whole experience significantly better than expected.
The following day was still overcast, and Mt. Assiniboine still remained hidden. The Lakes around the mountain are charmingly named: Gog, Magog, Og, Sunburst, Cerulean, Marvel, Gloria and Terrapin. Each is strikingly different in appearance. Given the weather, we decided to spend the next day walking the mostly level and undemanding trail to Og Lake, which turned out to be slightly creepy-looking and desolate, surrounded by bare rock and a wide beach of pebbles. By the time we returned to the cabin, my leg was acting up. I passed on a second hike, and spent time relaxing around the camp, while Filip headed up to Wonder Pass. He returned just as it was getting dark. He had actually crossed the pass and was able to look down at Marvel, Gloria and Terrapin lakes, but Mt. Assiniboine remained shrouded in cloud. We bunked down for the evening. I had worried that my chronic snoring would be a social problem, but it turned out that everybody snored. In the middle of the night, I woke and went out to pee. The sky had cleared and stars come out. The Northern Lights were shining. Not a spectacular display, with multi-coloured curtains, but at least a vivid glow and flicker. I told Filip about it, and he went out for a look, then the young girl came out as well.
The next day was clear and sunny. Mt. Assiniboine emerged fully and grandly. With it’s Matterhon-like shape, it dominates everything. The ice-bound pyramidal peak, even in a clear sky, leaves a smoke-like white plume of ice particles as the wind swirls past it. That’s why it’s named Assiniboine. The Assiniboine are a plains tribe who never lived anywhere near it. But George Dawson, Canada’s eminent 19th century geologist and explorer (author of Geology and Resources of the Region in the Vicinity of the 49th parallel from the Lake of the Woods to the Rocky Mountains, with Lists of Plants and Animals Collected, and Notes on the Fossils from the Killadeer Badlands) thought it resembled an Assiniboine teepee with smoke emerging from it’s top.
. This was our big day. The weather was perfect. Sunny, but never too hot. The air was as clear as crystal. All around were spectacular mountains, cliffs, gorges, forests, glaciers, lakes, rocky wastes, mountain meadows, bogs, rivers, and giant boulders that might have been tossed by the gods playing marbles. But Assiniboine loomed over them all, like a mother surrounded by her children. First, we walked around lake Magog to the foot of the great boulder field that descends from the glaciers. Filip took a dip in the frigid lake, while I more rationally soaked up the sun in the mountain meadows, mentally playing Mahler’s fifth symphony in my head. I tested out the boulder field, but determined that it was far too unstable and crevace-filled to safely spend much time on. One boulder was about the size of a small house and looked like it had been lobbed to its place by a giant catapult. Every few minutes you could hear something falling off the mountain, the noise echoing on the surface of the lake. The area was so beautiful, it was difficult to force ourselves to move on, but we found and followed the trail that would take us around the northern flank of the mountain and past Sunburst Peak to a chain of three lakes, Sunburst, Cerulean and Elizabeth. Each of these lakes has a different character. Cerulean nestles against the gigantic, jagged wall of Sunburst Peak. This wall looks like a huge mountain, looming over the lake splendidly, but it is actually nothing more than an outlying arm of Assiniboine, dwarfed by the later. Elizabeth Lake is named after Elizabeth von Rummel, a Bavarian aristocrat whose family was dispossessed and impoverished by the outbreak of World War I, and fled to Canada to work as ranch hands. Elizabeth grew up to be the “Baroness of the Rockies”, an expert mountaineer and naturalist, utterly devoted to Assiniboine. We found her cabin, hardly any bigger than the one we were sleeping in, where she lived until her death in 1980.
Again, my leg started acting up, and I rested while Filip climbed a ridge that gave a view of Nestor Peak and some more valleys to the north and west. Filip pointed out that my tendency to take a faster pace probably brought on the pain. Usually, I pulled ahead of him on the trail while he kept to a slower pace, but in the end, he was often able to climb where I couldn’t. But forcing myself to slow down was difficult. After seeing the three lakes, we started up the switchback trail that led to high ridges called the Niblet, the Nublet, and the Nub. By this time, our beauty-experiencing circuits were overloaded, but every time we climbed higher and the forest momentary opened up for a view, there was another jolt of it. Finally, we came to this:
This is what we had been seeking, and we had found it. A place that would express, not only our friendship, but the best things within us. When you are at such a place, you realize the insipidness of most human pretensions to wisdom. The silliness of organized religion and ideologies, and the pathetic, childish squabbles and squalid obsessions that we find ourselves enslaved to, all become nothing in the cold, pure air around these hundred thousand cathedrals of nature. When some fatuous ass claims to be able to know all about God’s commandments, or the infallible Market, or the predestination of the Dialectic, or whatever else the marching morons are peddling this week or next, I will always have this scene in my head to keep me sane and unswindled.
Tired, but happy, we made our way down to the cabin. After another night’s rest, we climbed up again to the Nublet. Filip made a try at the higher vantage of the Nub, but gave up. We came back in time to pack up and ready for the helicopter. The pilot took us up, but took a less direct path in order to search for a hiker reported injured somewhere. Sometimes we seemed to be making close approaches to peaks and ridges. From above we could see range after range of mountains, into the infinite distance, for this was a great ocean of mountains, into which you could throw a dozen Switzerlands and lose them. We had seen but a tiny, insignificant corner of it. And that was too big for us to grasp, too beautiful to find words for.
I am profoundly grateful that I was born, grew up, and live in this country, which has given me a wealth of beauty and a feeling of freedom that not even vermin like Prime Minister Harper can take away from me. Filip’s Facebook page has better photographs. He has a better camera and is a better photographer.
Selasa, 29 September 2015
My interview with Medievalists.net: chivalry in the era of the Hundred Years War
SEPTEMBER 24, 2015 BY MEDIEVALISTS.NET
By Danièle Cybulskie
This week at Medievalists.net, we’ve been thinking a lot about The Hundred Years’ War, so we thought we’d bring you five minutes with an expert on fourteenth-century chivalry and combat. Like so many things in the Late Middle Ages, The Hundred Years’ War was deeply influenced by chivalric ideals, like personal honour and prowess on the battlefield. Professor Emeritus Steven Muhlberger, scholar and avid member of the Society for Creative Anachronism, has written many books on fourteenth century chivalry and combat, a full list of which can be found below. Here are five medieval minutes with Steven Muhlberger.
DC: How did you get interested in the fourteenth century and its culture of chivalry and deeds of arms?
SM: First, the entire Society for Creative Anachronism was based on re-creating a tournament, and when that was a lot of fun, continuing to do so. The founders of the SCA were influenced by a number of writers, in particular Jean Froissart, a 14th century historian who specifically wrote to promote chivalry as he understood it. So when I joined the SCA in my university years, I was already being influenced by the 14th century. I started to take a more scholarly interest in the 14th century and chivalry in the late 1990s. Again, Jean Froissart was my main influence. Froissart is an amazing writer. His book is full of vivid stories. Your readers can easily find some of them on the web.
DC: In your work, you’ve looked closely at how chivalric ideals like honour and valour affected medieval identities. How much did chivalry influence people’s sense of self in the fourteenth century, both men and women?
SM: When people talk about chivalry today, they are often talking about relations between men and women. The classic example is, should men these days open doors for women, and if they don’t is chivalry dead? A friend of mine once said, the difference between courtesy and chivalry is that chivalry involves killing people. Chivalry in the 14th century was a warrior’s ideal.
Since most of society was run by warriors in the Middle Ages, the answer to your question is that chivalry was very important, but it affected men more directly than women. Even men who were not of the upper class might imitate the manners of upper-class warriors. In earlier centuries, warriors who were armed servants had climbed up the social scale by inventing the idea of chivalry – which were the virtues and practical skills that a good soldier needed – and promoted it as an ideal that improved their standing. Women participated in this by being judges and observers of the efforts of those men. People acting out chivalry had a number of audiences that they played to and one of them was noble women.
DC: I think it’s so important that you pointed out the interest of non-noble people in deeds of arms. While many (if not most) people think of formal deeds of arms as solely being the domain of the nobility, you’ve said in Formal Combats in the Fourteenth Century that “the popular enthusiasm for formal combats depicted in the movie A Knight’s Tale is closer to the facts of the matter”. What do you think drew people from all walks of life to love formal combats like tournaments?
SM: The association between chivalry and ruling meant that activities associated with knights had a special prestige. Formal deeds of arms were an opportunity for one group of people to show off their skills – particularly their horsemanship – and for other people to appreciate how bold and daring they were. If you have ever seen a joust in person, you know how exciting it is just to watch. Today’s tamer horse sports are exciting enough; 14th century horsemanship was even more impressive.
DC: Also in Formal Combats in the Fourteenth Century (I love this book, by the way), you mention war as a kind of “trial by battle writ large”, citing Edward III’s challenge to Philip VI to a trial by combat as an essential part of what became The Hundred Years’ War. How much of an influence did chivalric ideals have on The Hundred Years’ War? Did most of the commoners forming the infantry subscribe to these ideals?
SM: The influence of chivalry on different classes of people is an interesting question. One aspect of chivalry is that at least some of the time noble warriors on either side treat each other with respect. The common practice of capturing nobles and holding them for ransom moderated the effects of warfare on the high-ranking warriors. Ordinary soldiers could generally not expect that kind of good treatment. Nobles however in their dealings with each other very often played to the political public by advertising themselves as behaving in line with chivalric ideals.
One example from the 1340s: King Edward of England besieged the French town of Calais and built a fortification outside its walls to keep the French from relieving the garrison. The French king eventually showed up and challenged Edward to come out from his fortification and fight an open field of battle for possession of Calais. Edward refused to do that because he was very close to forcing Calais to surrender and he was safe in his fortified camp. We know that this was criticized by the French as being an unworthy way to fight. Edward was claiming to be King of France, and what kind of king could he be if he would not fight his rival when he had the opportunity? But as a practical strategy of warfare Edward was right to hold back and he took Calais.
DC: Speaking of French chivalric challenges, in Royal Jousts at the End of the Fourteenth Century, you look at jousts, especially the St. Inglevert jousts, as a way of building bridges between England and France during The Hundred Years’ War. How might combat have brought nations together in friendship?
SM: A joust between people who were on opposite sides in a war could either intensify their hostility or moderate it. In the case of St. Inglevert the French champions began by wanting to challenge the English to a competition in which they could prove that despite serious defeats in the past the French were the best chivalric warriors (warriors on horseback). Politicians on both sides – and these were nobleman themselves — were looking for an opportunity to negotiate a peace treaty so the challenges were repackaged as a friendly competition between the French champions who proposed it and anybody from any country who wanted to show up. It turned into something of an Olympic competition in jousting. Since the skill they were exercising in this competition was a specifically noble style of warfare the joust ended up being a very friendly occasion, emphasizing what these nobles had in common despite the war. I don’t know any Olympians myself but I’m sure they come back from the games with stories about how great the people in the other teams were. And I bet the Olympic Village has some great parties. St. Inglevert was a month of parties interspersed by very high level athletic competition.
DC: No wonder it was so well-chronicled! Given your expertise on formal combat and all things chivalric, I have to ask the most important question of all before you go. Who would win at a tournament: Lancelot or Gawain?
SM: We only know what the storytellers give us, and it seems to me that they unreasonably favor Lancelot. Who would you like to lead your army? Gawain for sure.
To learn more about fourteenth-century chivalry and formal combats, check out Steven Muhlberger’s many books on the subject (I recommend Formal Combats in the Fourteenth Century as a great starting place for Kindle readers). Volume four of the Deeds of Arms series, Will a Frenchman Fight?, will be available shortly from Freelance Academy Press. In the meantime, check out his blog Muhlberger’s World History.
Senin, 21 September 2015
On libraries
Minggu, 13 September 2015
What's wrong with the Canadian Conservative Party
There’s truth in advertising after all – Stephen Harper isn’t perfectTABATHA SOUTHEY
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Sep. 11, 2015 1:26PM EDT
It’s clear the Conservatives were caught off guard by the general public’s recent swell of concern for Syrian refugees, a cause for which the party has never had much time. Immigration Minister Chris Alexander once criticized Ontario’s decision to provide health care to asylum seekers at the provincial level, after the federal government had ended it, by saying “Simply arriving on our shores and claiming hardships isn’t good enough. This isn’t a self-selection bonanza, or a social program buffet.”
Various Conservative MPs have campaigned on this and similar sentiments.
It’s almost as if the party has been governing a different country than the one in which it lives, and when the actual country turned up – using a language the Conservative party doesn’t understand any more and certainly doesn’t speak – the Conservatives made the classic mistake of talking in their own language really loudly.
“We also are the most generous country to refugees in the world,” Mr. Alexander said, kicking things off on CBC’s Power and Politics, the day the picture of Alan Kurdi’s body, lifeless on the beach, hit the papers.
“Our country has the most generous immigration and refugee system in the world. We admit, per capita, more people than any other,” Prime Minister Stephen Harper himself said, in response to that same photo, before retreating to the security of security issues – pretty much saying that he’s barely keeping Canada safe as it is and Canadians themselves can’t be trusted to vet anyone
. What we were hearing there from our PM was a convenient conflating of immigrants with refugees, one that’s popular with Conservative politicians just now and, frankly, when you’re being this loose with your definitions, you might as well throw in vacationers, and boast that everyone may purchase as many small glass bottles shaped like maple leaves full of maple syrup as they wish upon arrival.
Mr. Harper compounded this by confusing Canada being first even in the generous and not entirely relevant category of new arrivals per capita with us being 24th. This level of numerical literacy does not inspire much faith in him as the steward of the economy his party claims him to be.
“We’ve been ahead of the game,” Paul Calandra crowed later, also on Power and Politics, before taking the hotly contested Conservative Refugee Talking Point Hyperbole Prize with “I’m glad that our European allies … are starting to catch up with us.”
To be clear: As of last month, Canada has, according to the government, taken in 2,374 Syrian refugees. As of March, 2015, Germany had taken in 105,000.
Last weekend 25,000 refugees (from all countries) arrived in Munich alone.
I half expected Mr. Calandra to follow that one up by congratulating Europe on catching up with Canada in its construction of classical Greek temples.
It’s difficult to imagine a more tone-deaf response than the one Canadians have been offered, and we’re not really that difficult to please.
We’re a nation of a generous but not particularly naive people. Few were expecting politicians to say, “We made a mistake,” and most would have accepted an immediate “We can do even better!” but that is not what we were given.
Over all it has felt as if Canadians have just called out “Hey, we can help!” – only to have the Prime Minister and many in his party assure them that, no, they cannot, enough is being done. Any greater effort on anyone’s part could only spell disaster, because, unlike a good many other nations and the UN just now, we’re just not up to the task of screening refugees.
The Conservatives are, they almost seemed to assure us, in way over their heads – so we should vote for them.
There’s a political and marketing tactic so established that it has its own acronym: FUD. It stands for fear, uncertainty and doubt. Traditionally, FUD involves a strategy of spreading vague anxiety about the merits of one’s opponents, or their products.
It’s a tired ploy but in the past few weeks we have seen it boldly reimagined; Mr. Harper has had the questionable vision to apply FUD inward.
He appears to be, rather industriously, trying to actively make the public fearful, uncertain and doubtful about himself.
The “Stephen Harper isn’t perfect but…” ad could be said to have launched the effort. Then, when for reasons known only to himself and his producers, CBC-TV’s Peter Mansbridge interviewed each of the party leaders this week one-on-one outdoors in different woodsy locations (it was a bit like watching the world’s worst fishing show), Mr. Harper said: “I’m not perfect, but…”
We are, it feels, mere days away from being offered “Stephen Harper, the devil you know,” as a campaign slogan.
What we needed to hear was not that the problem is too big and that we are too small and should be more afraid than caring. What we needed to hear was: “We’ll roll up our sleeves, you pull out your couches,” because most of us know this story.
I grew up close to a Ukrainian family. The mother came to Canada right after the Second World War as a little girl, her family having fled Ukraine when the Russians invaded. They travelled first on bicycles – she was three, her father pushed hers – and then on a sled someone gave them, which her father pulled, all the way to Germany.
Once in Germany, they were processed to come to Canada, where an uncle had sponsored them, and – this is what I never forgot, although I think I only heard the story once – the little girl’s arm was broken and her mother chose to remove her daughter’s cast and sling, so fearful was she that the family would be rejected as unhealthy, perceived as a potential burden to Canada.
I’m not sure what, if anything, I was meant to take away from this story, but it stayed with me as a kind of parable about the value of my country.
To my young self, it was in part a story about how much people wanted to come here, and the difficult, possibly pragmatic choices and calculations a parent might make in order to achieve that end, but mostly the story was almost comedic to me then because: They were coming to Canada, to join family, of course we’d let them in.
That the mother – coming from some other, terrible, place, not realizing that her child’s broken arm would not be held against the family – was something resembling a punchline to me, and that this struck me as remotely funny, struck me as serious then, and more serious these past few weeks.
Sabtu, 12 September 2015
Medieval Mounted Combat
What impresses me is the level of horsemanship that is both demonstrated and implied.
Kamis, 10 September 2015
Folk of the Air
It might be considered a novel of hippy-dom in the San Francisco Bay area in the early 1970s. It is also a book about the intrusion of supernatural elements into a modern community. And most of all, it is a contemplation of the ideas and attitudes that in real life created the Society for Creative Anachronism in that same Bay Area in that same era.
Peter Beagle, who enjoys a very high reputation among a certain group of fantasy readers, is in this novel perhaps not as careful to construct a unified work of art as in some others. There are a few weak spots in the book that support that analysis. However, one can also argue that Beagle has got countervailing strengths which allow him to deal with a number of themes in interesting ways. The novel is complicated and diverse, just like life.
My own interest in the book is unsurprisingly in the way he portrays the early SCA (as the League of Archaic Pleasures), not as it was but as it might have been. Beagle says a lot about the SCA, especially the SCA in its earliest days, and he is very fair in his portrayal. He shows the good the bad the mundane and the bizarre that can accompany a serious effort to revive historic activities and culture. Like the early SCA, Beagle's League of Archaic Pleasures exists for good reasons and bad. People have a variety of motivations, not all of them good, and not all of them contemptible either. If you are a long-time member of the SCA like I am, you recognize people thinking and talking about the activities they have taken up and the Society they have created, taking pleasure in them, and wondering whether what they're doing makes any sense. Beagle does not answer their question.
One can argue that this kind of social fantasy is dangerous, and Beagle is quite aware of that. He deals with the dangers by portraying them as age-old supernatural forces that reemerge from elsewhere to intervene in and exploit the favourable environment created by the existence of the League. Beagle is able to make the reader shiver almost as much as the characters in the book do when confronting unexpected and uncanny manifestations.
I was talking about this book to a friend who had had it unread on the shelf for years and realized that my younger friend might find this to be a historical novel about a certain time in California's history. It is after all nearly a half-century old.
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